Tuesday 08/28
DAY 7 - Today started off on a rather high note. The ladies of TTS Pastry I adore Chef Guido. He's funny, charismatic, Italian, and his biceps look like someone shoved a tennis ball into them. Up to this point, he's been the only Chef-Instructor we've had for all this Serv-Safe information. On this particular Tuesday though, we had Chef Tim. Apparently Chef Tim is the normal instructor for all the sanitation stuff, but since we're at an awkward time during the week, Chef Guido had been taking his place. I think all of the class (maybe minus Karim) just stopped when Chef walked into the room. In speaking with a couple of the other women after class and beyond that day, Chef Tim's got what is referred to as the 'Mens Health' look. Taller, in great shape, salt & pepper hair...think Bruce Willis or Cal Ripken Jr. That's all I'm going to say about it though because this is a COOKING BASED BLOG after all. But there was a good amount of giggling from grown women. Sort of like those old Diet Coke commercials where the ladies are watching the construction worker through the window...teehee.
We finished all the lecture on sanitation and did a mini-review/practice test because the actual exam was going to be on Thursday. With that out of the way, we could get started on the itinerary for the rest of the afternoon/evening. Just two main projects to work on: Tarte l'Oignon and Fig Newtons.
We thinly sliced (and I onl cried for a little bit) two large onions each to prep the filling for the Tarte l'Oignon. They were placed in a large saute pan over LOW heat with a small amount of butter to start the cooking and caramelization process. Its important to use low heat because you don't want the butter or the onions to burn at all. Slow and low makes the results perfect in the end. The onions took a good amount of time to caramelize, but they turned a beautiful golden brown color. Once they were finished, they were turned out to cool on plastic wrap for later use.
Both our Fig Newton filling and dough were already prepared from last class. Remember we had softened the figs by simmering them in a sugar, water, and lemon juice mixture? Of course you remember! Our dough split between table-mates then rolled out to about 6x24 inches or the length and most of the width of a half sheet of parchment paper. We prepped a basic egg wash (1 egg, 1 egg yolk, and a pinch of salt) and brushed the border of the dough (about an inch and a half in) with it. Half of the the fig filling was placed down the center of each dough sheet in a straight line and then the edges of the dough were folded up around it. Sort of like making a long sweet fig burrito. The egg wash acted like a glue to keep the dough together. The roll was coated with the egg wash and then put back into the refrigerator to chill for another 20-30 minutes. This step is important because if we baked these right away, the dough would melt and expose the fig filling.
While the onions were still cooling and the figs were chilling, each person had a bit of time to make a batch of Pate Sucree for next class. We are really getting quick at these doughs and super quick at tidying up our stations after each section on the daily outline. With our sucrees divided into two, wrapped, labeled, and in the fridge, it was time to assemble Tarte l'Oignon.
We grabbed our chilled galette-style doughs we rolled and decoratively hand edged last class. The cooled caramelized onions were placed in a even layer on top of the chilled round. We sliced roma tomatoes into medium medallions and those went over the onions. Next was a layer of chopped walnuts, followed by a sprinkling of bleu cheese. Any other tangy soft cheese could be used instead, but the bleu really compliments the other components exceptionally well and it melts nicely in the oven. The tart was seasoned with salt and pepper (or in my case, just pepper) and put into a 350 degree oven where it would stay for about 10-15 minutes or until the galette crust was browned and baked all the way through.
The final task for the day was baking off the Fig Newtons. We held off on putting them in the oven with the Tarte l'Oignon so there would be no possibility of scents/flavors mixing and invading each other. You don't want your sweet figs tasting like sweet onions, right? Oven temp for the logs was also 350 and they only took about 10-15 minutes as well. Since the figs were already cooked, the main thing you want to look for in these is a nice brown crust on the dough. When they were finished, they were sliced, while still warm, on a diagonal into equal parts. The dough on these cookies is so crumbly that if you were to wait to slice them, you really run the risk of ruining the look of the finished product. That being said, it is probably the best tasting dough I think we've made so far. Extremely tender and perfectly sweetened. Figs are a unique taste all on their own, so their flavor just went hand in hand with the simple crust.
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Thursday 08/30
DAY 8 - The first item on the outline for the afternoon was supposed to be the big Serv-Safe sanitation exam. A wrench was temporarily thrown in that plan because a Chef-Instructor to actually administer the teste to us was nowhere to be found. Good thing though, because it gave everyone a chance to roll out the sucree dough that we had made on Tuesday. One portion of the dough was rolled into 4 tartelette shells and the other half of it was rolled out into one large tart ring. Chef Guido was finally tracked down by the time everyone had their dough rolled and put back into the fridge to relax the glutens before use.
The Serv-Safe exam was 90 questions, but supposedly 20 of them don't count. You can miss some and others are test questions to gauge what students are really learning from the course book and lecture sessions. There's really so much minute detailed information in the lesson plans that many of the questions are really common sense. I only had to go back and re-assess my answer on two questions. We all kind of gathered in the lounge after finishing until all the tests had been turned in. There MAY have been more giggling about Chef Tim...MAYBE.
Once we had all regrouped and decided the test was ten times easier than we thought it would be, it was time to get down to business. We had to turn our attention to Spritzkakor or Scandinavian Butter Cookies. This was going to be our first attempt at piped cookies, meaning the dough is actually placed via piping bag and a star tip to be baked. Often you'll see these types of butter cookies with a maraschino cherry, nut, or preserves in the middle of them. The one that was in our original curriculum called for butter, powdered sugar, salt, lemon zest, eggs, vanilla extract, Chef Cynthia didn't particularly care for that recipe, so we got another one that used almond paste, granulated sugar, butter, egg, egg white, and a considerably smaller amount of cake flour. Other optional ingredients include a pinch of sat, vanilla extract, and lemon zest. The almond paste and sugar are creamed to a very soft consistency, otherwise the dough would be too stiff to pipe. A bit of the egg can be added to aid in the creaming process if necessary...to ensure total smoothness. The butter was creamed in next, followed by the egg and egg white. After all those ingredients were well combined, the optional salt, vanilla, and lemon zest could be added. And the flour was mixed in last just to combine. With a piping bag and a simple twist of the wrist to make a double rosette on the baking sheet out cookies were placed and then we pressed a tiny well in the center of each one. I know personally, I had to try a few times to get the paper coronet rolled just right to squirt raspberry preserves into the dent, but once the rolling and folding had been mastered, the coronet had been filled, it took no time at all. They went into the oven at 350 until they looked like this:
When the Spritzkakors were in the oven we prepped the tart and tartlette shells for cuire a blanc. The large shell would go for the Claufoutis later on in the evening and the minis would be used during next class for Tartelettes Aux Citrons.
Claufoutis (Klau-Foo-Tea)Aux Cerises Limousin was point five on the itinerary, so we all mis en place'd for that. When our pre-baked shell was finishing cooling, we made a simple custard using milk, heavy cream, vanilla, eggs and sugar. Traditionally, Claufoutis was made with un-pitted black cherries, but this evening, we had blueberries to use. Claufoutis can also be made with flour to create more of a batter filling that is poured into a baking dish over fruit. Chef Kir Rodriguez had a recipe like this that Chef Cynthia made last class and it turns out to be a more cake like consistency. Scratch that, like a round blueberry muffin. That's what it reminded me of. The version we did just had us place the fruit in the bottom of the tart shell, then pour the custard slowly over it until it was filled. It went into the oven at 250 degrees for about 25-35 minutes until the custard was set around the fruit. The thing I noticed about this tart was that the custard didn't pull away from the fruit it was baked around like it did in the Tarte Alsacienne. I'm not really sure why, but it behaved itself more. Perhaps it was because the apples in the Tarte Alsacienne had other ingredients on them which prevented the baked custard to completely adhere to their sides. At any rate, once the custard was set, this is what our Claufoutis looked like:
Lemon Curd was the final task for this Thursday afternoon. We just had to make it and wrap/chill it for use on Saturday. Sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, eggs, and butter are all placed in a bowl over a bain marie. We also had a couple sheets of gelatin (for thickening) that were soaking in cold water. That mix is cooked over medium heat until it reaches a hollandaise consistency. The gelatin is added off heat at that time then once the sheets have completely dissolved, the curd is strained. This catches any bits of lemon zest or curdled egg that might have remained in the curd. Its then placed and wrapped on a plastic lined sheet pan. When we all had our curds sealed and ready to chill, we could clean up and call it a night. I think it was a nice easy way to end the evening by making something that wasn't that messy.
Haha, I just wish it meant that I wasn't the last one in the classroom again...every night! My OCD gets the best of me. Thankfully its the kitchen cleanliness that really reaps the benefits...However, it also makes me feel like I am not working fast enough. I completely get that school is all about the learning process. Learning to do things well in an efficient manner to meet the time demands of the culinary industry. But for some reason being the last one out of the classroom gives me this overwhelming sense of incompetence. Hopefully that will pass in good time.
Now might be a great time to mention the blogs of two of my companions on this FCI Baking and Pastry Arts journey. Nancy's blog can be found here: http://www.nancy-loves-sweets.blogspot.com/ and Tara's is over here: http://pastryfluff.blogspot.com/. They are filled with amazing photos and useful information. Definitely check both of their sites out and wish them the best of luck on this adventure! I am so glad to have such wonderful people to share this time with.
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Saturday 09/01
DAY 9 - This Saturday's class started off with a good rolling of Pate Sucree that we had made ahead of time. It was to become the base for one of the projects, the Tarte Aux Noix, that was to be completed later on in the morning/afternoon. Nothing like the sound of wooden rolling pins banging on metal tables to 1) soften cold dough and 2) wake you up in the morning.
When that round was rolled, fitted, and back in the fridge chilling to relax the glutens, it was time to prepare the Creme d'Amandes we would need as part of the filling for the Tarte Aux Noix. The first Creme d'Amandes we made was almond cream with almond paste. We used butter, almond paste, eggs, and pastry cream powder. This Creme d'Amandes we were going to use for the Tarte Aux Noix was more traditional, using butter, sugar, almond flour, eggs, and pastry cream powder. Basically we were making our own almond paste for the cream instead of using pre-made paste. Judging from the smell and texture of this traditional Creme d'Amandes, it was well worth the maybe 30 seconds of extra labor it took to get these different ingredients together. With that set aside to use later on, we could move on to Confit de Citron.
It may sound fancy, but Confit de Citron is really just candied citrus peel. It could be orange peel, lemon peel, grapefruit peel, the process is the same regardless of what citrus you're using. You can cut the PITHLESS citrus peel any style you like (we julienned) then place it in a saucepan completely covered with cold water. Bring that mixture to a boil and then strain. This process, called blanching, is repeated three more times before bringing the peel to a SIMMER in a saucepan with granulated sugar and corn syrup. The simmering only lasts as long as it takes to get the peel translucent and tender. The (in our case lemon) peel was dried on a cooling rack until it is tacky-like in feel and then you can roll it in powdered sugar or use it unpowdered. It will keep a GOOD LONG WHILE when refrigerated, as long as you store it in its cooking syrup.
Next up was a short lecture on meringues. Because we were using a meringue for the finish on our tartelettes aux citrons, it was imperative that we learn what kind of meringues there are and how each one is properly prepared and used. Meringues are a mixture of egg white foam and sugar. What differentiates the types boils down to the consistency of the sugar, when its added, and temperatures. There are three types of meringue: French, Italian, and Swiss. French meringue is the most delicate kind of meringue: raw sugar is beaten into egg whites. Its mainly used in cake and cookie preparations because it MUST be baked. This is due to the potential of salmonella to exist in the raw egg whites. The egg whites are foamed in a mixer until frothy and then the sugar is added little by little at medium speed when the whites are at soft peak stage. Its continued to be beaten at medium speed until just before it done, a process called searing, which prevents the meringue from deflating immediately once the whipping action has stopped. For an Italian meringue, wet sugar is cooked to softball stage (around 238 degrees farenheit) and then is beaten into egg white foam. The whites of the egg poach the sugar, which provides for a good amount of volume, but also good stability in the overall mix. Italian meringues are used for the bases of many mousses and buttercream fillings. Since the egg whites are heated by the hot sugar syrup, there is no need to bake the meringue after its made. The egg whites and sugar in a Swiss meringue are heated and foamed over a bain marie to about 130 degrees farenheit. Once that temperature is reached, they are finished whipping in the stand mixer. This technique results in less volume and lightness to the meringue, but its definitely more stable than the French would be. Swiss meringues are often used for baked meringue decorations and it was the Swiss meringue that we used to finish our tartelettes with later on that afternoon.
We had a French Nut Tart to deal with first though. We had already rolled pate sucree shells for this Tarte aux Noix. A thin layer of raspberry jam was spread in to the bottom of the unbaked and undocked tart. Toasted, sliced almonds were sprinkled on top of the jam and then we put the shell back into the fridge while we prepared the rest of the filling. The creme d'amandes we made earlier was paddled until it was smooth. Egg whites and sugar were then whipped to still peak for a French meringue. The meringue was folded into the creme d'amandes along with hazelnut and almond flour to make a batter. This heavenly smelling batter went on top of the jam/almond layer of the tart shell and the whole thing went into the 350 degree oven for about 20-30 minutes.
Each person in the class made a full recipe of pate brisee for next class and then it was time to move into the tartelettes aux citrons. Using the lemon curd that we made in the previous class and our prebaked tartelette shells, we spread a bit of the curd to fill each shell. They were set aside in order for each team to make their first official attempt at Swiss meringue. Not too shabby for novices! Our meringues were then piped onto the tartlettes in our choice of decorative patterns. From there, we each got our hands on a communal blowtorch to brown the tops of each meringue, taking extra care not to burn them. Some of the confit de citron that was draining on racks from earlier was used to finish the decor. At this point in the process I could tell you how good they looked...or I could show you:
By this time our Tarte Aux Noix were out of the oven and waiting to be finished on the cooling racks. The tops of these tarts are traditionally finished with powdered sugar in a pattern. Many of the class did snowflake-esque designs or hearts. I on the other hand, HAD to put my spin on it. So Week 3 at the FCI for Ms Jones ended with a crossbones pattern of my own:
Next week: Chocolate, caramel, chocolate, caramel, a smidge more chocolate, a teeensy bit more caramel, Linzers, and a sprinkling of cheese...
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